Gauthier “Domaine de Colette” 2009 Moulin-à-Vent “Vieilles Vignes” (Beaujolais) – One does not, as a rule, look to Moulin-à-Vent for early approachability. Even the circus-clown Dubœuf bottlings can be a little brutish in their (briefer than normal) youth. And 2009 is no vintage for quaffers and guzzlers, from any appellation. And yet, here is the exception to every expectation. A wine full of sines and cosines in wave form, a black pulsar of low-level red-fruited radiation, a neutron-star core of particulate minerality, and a soft, quickly-fading finish. The temptation to call it a bad wine just because it’s so obviously “wrong” is, itself, wrong; it’s not a bad wine, though I dare not ask how it arrived at this point. In fact, it’s exceedingly pleasurable. (2/12)
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