Le Piane 2004 Colline Novaresi “La Maggiorina” (Piedmont) – An aging experiment. At release, the “red riesling” aspect of the wine – mineral, linear, precise, and chilly – was very evident, but since then bottles have been tentative at best, providing only icy structure without much else. Since I’ve no experience aging this wine, there was no way to know if this was a closed period or just the wine’s slow descent into rigor mortis.
Well, this bottle provides a measure of hope, though of course I still don’t know how matters will develop from here. The fruit is back, darker and more developed than it was, though there’s still a strong sensation of restraint, or even diffidence. The structure is no less chilly. It’s far from an expressive wine, but with careful listening there’s a quiet story being told. (1/12)
jeannie rogers
February 19, 2012hi Thor. 2004 was absolutely my favorite vintage but I admit that I was mostly alone until at least a year later when the tannins eased up a bit and the customers started thinking that they could drink the wine. it is from 100 year old croatina, vespolina, nebbiolo and other indigenous grapes including a couple of white varietals. we are selling the 2010 now which is fleshier but still has that structure which I love but which is harder to bond with if tannic wines aren’t that appealing. I love the crispy quality, low alcohol and minerallity that makes me feel like my insides are getting a spa scrubbing.
thor iverson
February 19, 2012I really loved it at release, so you weren’t alone! But it looks like I need to make a trip back to Boston one of these days to restock.