On a Sunday afternoon

Punta Crena 2008 Colline Savonesi “Cruvin” (Liguria) – For an hour or so after opening, this is surly and decidedly incomplete, its astringency scraping any notion of fruit or pleasure from the palate. Things change, though. While it’s never other than chalky, that quality becomes a lot more interesting when it’s a textural counterpoint to a richer mélange of black fruit and porcini. This is a wine of soil. (1/12)

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