Peciña cheeks

Señorio de P. Peciña 2003 Rioja Crianza (Center-North) – I have struggled for several years now with the delta between my friends’ enthusiasm for these wines and my lack thereof, whether tasted there, here, or anywhere. This is the first bottle I’ve actually enjoyed enough to express enthusiasm for, though it comes with baggage (note the vintage) and the price that baggage demands: excessive heaviness and tannin that might, in the end, be unresolvable. Otherwise, the deep, not-quite-gelatinous fruit is extremely appealing, and manages to retain a sense of humor about itself even as all around it is drooping like a Dalí clock. (1/12)

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