Boxler 2009 Riesling Sommerberg “L31V” (Alsace) – Tasted next to a Trimbach CFE, this tastes lavish. Of course, it’s the more restrained of Boxler’s two crus, though there’s plenty of difference between the different coded bottlings from each site, and this is a full-throated, powerful expression from a year that emphasizes both, everything ripe and very nearly explosive. It’s frankly huge for a Boxler Sommerberg of any sub-designation, with a fair bit of residual sugar, and though the trademark house balance is here, it’s just barely here. I think everything will turn out rather better than alright in the distant day of this wine’s full maturity, but it’s going to be someone needed an occasional check-in. (1/12)

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