Rising Gorges

Brégeon 2004 Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Gorges (Loire) – Wow, is this good. It’s a lavish, showy, almost – but not quite – lush expression of Muscadet, everything very nearly oversaturated and just shy of lurid. Yet it keeps its poise and its nerve. As full-bodied as I think the appellation can get, but in no fashion overdone. Will it age? I have no reason to doubt it. (12/11)

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