Dettori “Badde Nigolosu” 2007 Romangia Bianco (Sardinia) – 15.5%. Let’s get the volatility out of the way first: yes, there’s some, but it’s well-managed (and since I’m very sensitive to the stuff, normal human beings probably won’t even notice it). And to deal with the second plumptious elephant in the room, the alcohol is very perceptible as size but not as heat, which is – this is a pet theory of mine, but increasing experience bears it out – largely due to the orange wine-like structure of this particular beast, which seems to block or otherwise mask the booze. As for the rest, it’s sun-drenched, rich with kaleidoscopic flavors nudged in the direction of stone fruit, and texturally adhesive. This is a delicious wine, but far too powerful to just open willy or nilly; it needs the right sparring partner. (12/11)
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