Leydier “Domaine de Durban” 2000 Côtes-du-Rhône-Villages Beaumes de Venise (Rhône) – Unlike the previous bottle, which was brutally corked, this is singing in all the quartzy, brittle tones its crystalline youth promised. There’s no “fruit” as such, but then there never really was; this was always about some sort of rocky simulacrum of its terroir (whatever the source…not, biologically, the actual soil, but it sure likes to mimic same), but now that soil is slightly eroded and fully exposed. Eccentrically brilliant. (12/11)
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