Maréchal 2004 Bourgogne “Cuvée Gravel” (Burgundy) – Really good, as of now. Biting, brittle, flowing, wholesome. Contradictions in pinot. It’s sharply dark reddish, yet it’s as appealing as a Bourgogne from anyone but the absurdly decommissioning producers (who use young-vine grand cru fruit, etc., and whose Bourgognes tend to be priced at premier cru levels) could possibly be. (12/11)
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