Perrin “Château de Beaucastel” 1998 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc (Rhône) – Fat…and then, almost remarkably, not. Quite a dance, these old pale-faced Rhônes do. Dried stone fruit, wet stone fruit, sun-drenched paintings of stone fruit, terracotta, aromas that build from a heavily-oxidized and nasty, vegetal spike at first opening to something appealing at hour four, and delicious at hour 24. No, really…those are accurate numbers. This is a wine that moves. (12/11)
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