TN: Bucci ball

Bucci 2004 Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico “Superiore” (Marches) – Fresh but intense pale citrus and seawater, kelp, mountain flowers and black licorice. A fascinating and complex wine, and a terrific bargain as well. (7/06)

100% verdicchio. Bucci’s straight-ahead verdicchio has every reason to be a disappointment next to its majestic riserva bottling, and yet it’s not. There’s terrific fruit at work here, with winemaking that allows it to express itself (and its site). Yet another counter-argument to those who claim that Italian whites are, in their entirety, dull. Alcohol: 13.5%. Closure: cork. Importer: Empson. Web:

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