Another dispatch from San Francisco

Delfina, a pulsing burst of energy in the Mission, gets almost everything right…and for not that much money. Unless you do what we did, that is, and order a Anselma 1993 Barolo Monforte (still a bargain at just under $100). Not a great Barolo by any standard, but a good one, showing rough-hewn tannin and dried rose petals with a tight, sharp core of sun-baked but acidic red cherries. With Delfina’s meltingly delicious Tuscan pork ribs, it was a killer.

A word of advice, though: the buttermilk panna cotta with candied kumquats is disappointing.


  • Ken Sternberg

    April 26, 2006

    Yes! I know how maddening it is! Few places get the buttermilk panna cotta with candied kumquats right. It’s a genuine dish of the people.

  • Thor Iverson

    May 4, 2006

    Aux barricades des kumquats!


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