Cincinnato 2008 Lazio Rosso “Pollùce” (Lazio) – There’s something on-the-ground authentic about this wine, by which I mean that it’s the sort of thing one occasionally encounters while traveling Old World wine regions, perhaps poured from a pitcher or cask at a casual wine bar or locals’ restaurant, after which one wonders why such inexpensive, innocent goodness can’t be had for a similar price back home. I don’t know what the actual winemaking here is like, but I can say that it tastes about as unmanipulated (but clean) as anything that’s passed my lips of late. Sapid, berried, slightly crisp, quick. At twice the quantity this would never have been “too much wine.” (1/11)

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