Bollen alley

Albrecht 1998 Gewurztraminer Bollenberg (Alsace) – Drying, strappy, and tannic. All things a gewurztraminer can be when it ages, and whether they’re positive or negative depends on the rest. Which, here, is a kinky mélange of spiced banana skin, fuzzy peach, and copper bullets racing down a wind tunnel. Texturally inimitable, in a way, for true skin-contact whites are way more palpable than this, while most everything else would rely more on acid (or its lack) for structure. I kinda love it, but it’s a complicated love. (9/10)


2 Comments

  • David B

    December 9, 2010

    I'm sorry, but Terry Theise has permanently reserved the word "kinky" for use in describing Albalonga.

    Reply
  • thor iverson

    December 10, 2010

    I'm sure he'd find this a sufficiently non-vanilla companion.

    Reply

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