Trimbach 2000 Riesling (Alsace) – Age hasn’t hurt this, but it has certainly transformed it from puppy-fat youth to skeletal oldster in just a few years. Not that the négociant wines of Trimbach are really meant to age, but the rieslings can be surprising; the ’98 did particularly well up to about its tenth birthday or so. Anyway, here we’ve got stalky steel flaking away into a brisk fall breeze, a hazy memory of apple, and…well, that’s pretty much it. Drink up, for sure, but with a certain austere pleasure. (12/09)

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