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tasting notes


[clos des briords]Ollivier “La Pépière” 2004 Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie Clos des Briords “Cuvée Vieilles Vignes” (Loire) — Broad and deep. As purely intellectual a vinous exercise as I’ve encountered in some time; all the pleasure to be found from drinking this requires attention and understanding. There’s no way this would ever be appealing to the soif crowd, unless they’re absolutely prepared for the experience. All that said, it’s brilliant wine at the top of its game. (11/16)

Heads Leeuwin, tails you lose

[leeuwin estate]Leeuwin Estate “Art Series” 1999 Shiraz (Margaret River) — Blackberry syrup and soy. I suppose this has aged, but my memory is that it was less sludgy in its youth. It’s in no danger of cliff-diving, so I suppose it might be interesting to see where it goes from here. (11/16)

Myrna Loi

[nùo]Loi “Nùo” 2013 Vermentino di Sardegna (Sardinia) — Skin contact, with all the leveling, asymptotic effects that portends. It’s still more refreshing than Dettori (isn’t everything? well, except Cornelissen), but it’s very heavy, and I’m not seeing the vermentino here. All that aside, I like it, in its lead-on-the-tongue sort of way. (11/16)

Lapalu, see? I’m home!

[lapalu]Lapalu 2014 Brouilly La Croix des Rameaux (Beaujolais) — Almost breathtakingly pretty. Crushed berries (some exotic cousin of the cherry) edged with flowers so bright they glow like neon. Lovely. (11/16)


[clisson]La Pépière 2009 Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Clisson (Loire) — Two bottles. First is partially oxidized, likely due to cork failure. Second is tentative and restrained; an infinite blank plane of unwillingness. I’m not sure how to judge its future, given these performances. (11/16)


[mcfadden]McFadden 2013 Gewürztraminer (Potter Valley) — Acrid, sweaty, mean. Only a little bit of snappish apricot rind gives any indication that this is gewürztraminer. Poor. (11/16)

Levrette Dirksen

[marnes blanches]Domaine des Marnes Blanches 2013 Côtes du Jura Chardonnay “En Levrette” (Jura) — Soulful. Rocks, well-earned sweat, deep amber sunglow. Everything’s present but everything’s elusive. I love this wine. (11/16)

Ridge lyin’

[geyserville]Ridge 2001 Geyserville (Sonoma County) — Unraveling a bit, but the yarn is still beautiful. Mixed berries, their acid more on display than usual, and a fraying oak/tannin structure. Drink soonish. (10/16)

Hot Todd(y)

Dashe 2012 Zinfandel Todd Brothers Ranch “Old Vines” (Alexander Valley) — Everything flawlessly in place, just awaiting age. As always, there’s a tightly coiled structure beneath slightly less generous fruit than Dashe’s other zins. Meant for the cellar. (11/16)

We are bourg. Gewurztraminer is futile.

[blanck]Blanck 2001 Gewurztraminer Altenbourg (Alsace) — Lychee and steel, crystals and bite. Off-dry, for sure, but there’s plenty of acidity. Hold longer? No danger in doing so, but no real reason to either; I don’t think this has bacon in its future. (10/16)