Hacienda Elsa 2003 Bierzo (Northwest Spain) — Mencia’s dried flowers on full display, with an only semi-leaden thud of overweighted structure. But while there’s more resolution in store, I think the fruit will die before that’s finished. As European 2003s go, this is one of the good ones. (8/16)
thor iverson
Sorbée course
Vouette & Sorbée Champagne Extra Brut “fidèle” (Champagne) — Disgorged 9 October 2013. One of my absolute favorite Champagnes of all time, this is so vinous and delicately red-fruited, yet retains the essential dancing vivacity of Champagne rather than stomping into dark-fruited meunier-land. Brilliant, flawless, and the absolute best partner for Vacherin Mont d’Or you could ever possibly imagine. (7/16)
Verset, can you see?
Verset 1999 Cornas (Rhône) — Beautiful. Elegant. Stunning. Fine particulate wild boar aroma, deep and ancient earth, supple structure providing just enough grip but yielding to any sophisticated exploration. The most elegant Cornas I’ve ever tasted. I repeat: beautiful. (8/16)
Verset 2000 Cornas (Rhône) — Corked. Arrrrrgh! (8/16)
Roilette paper
Coudert 2011 Fleurie Clos de la Roilette (Beaujolais) — Bracing, with its gritty fruit cowering a bit under a quick brake-tire screech. An ill-timed opening, but I’ve no reason to believe things won’t resolve for the better. (8/16)
CdR, stat
Texier 2012 Côtes-du-Rhône (Rhône) — All the classic characteristics dialed down to about 7, without sacrificing anything except unnecessary force. This is why one drinks Texier. (7/16)
Louvau riche
Dashe 2012 Zinfandel Louvau “Old Vines” (Dry Creek Valley) — Big, bold, fruity, young. So very young. Nothings resolved here; it’s just a delicious cacophony. (7/16)
Maréchal law
Maréchal 2002 Chorey-les-Beaune (Burgundy) — Clinging, just, to a post-twilight red haze. More appealing than I make it sound…this is the destiny of a lot of Burgundy…yet certainly not to be held even a day longer. (7/16)
Briords Camembert?
Olliver 2005 Muscadet Sèvre & Maine Sur Lie Clos des Briords “Cuvée Vieilles Vignes” (Loire) — Just at the right point between saline and bones. Strong for eleven year old Muscadet. Delicious. (7/16)
Down at the A&P
A&P de Villaine 2005 Côte Chalonnaise “La Digoine” (Burgundy) — Faded and tenuous, yet the thin red persistence eventually convinces. It’s a bit too old, though. (7/16)